TABLE OF CONTENTS

Overview

Overview

Step by step guide to replacing the Rear Factory Harness G on the StagesBike SB20.

Time required: 25 minutes

Tools required

2.5 mm hex key
3 mm hex key
8 mm hex key
Adjustable wrench or 15 mm open end wrench
Power supply cord to fit Harness G plug jack
Electrical tape
Zip tie / cable tie

Replacement parts required

000-7869 - Harness G

Replacement instructions

Unplug bike

Remove the power connector from the bike behind the rear leg before starting the repair.

Remove the non-drive side front and rear flywheel caps

Using a 3 mm hex key remove the front and rear caps exposing the flywheel **(PCB board and Harness G connector)

Locate the Harness G connector on the right side of the lower PCB and unplug it by gently pulling downwards.

Removal of the non-drive side crank arm.

Use the 8 mm hex key to remove the crank arm by turning the bolt counter-clockwise. After breaking the bolt loose there will be an increase in resistance which is normal. Once the self extracting crank bolt engages, keep turning until the resistance decreases and the crank arm comes free from the bottom bracket spindle.

Remove the non-drive side belt guard.

Using a 3 mm hex key remove the three short screws from the guard on the non-drive side.

Next, on the drive-side remove the four long screws holding the non-drive side guard in place. There is one forward screw and three lower screws.

At this point the guard should fall away easily, exposing the harness cable as it exits from the main frame to the rear upright.

Remove the factory Harness G Plug from the rear frame up right.

Using a 2.5 mm hex key remove the plug cover.

Loosen plug nut with wrench but do not remove the nut.

Insert inline power cord in to plug. Secure the free end to the bike frame to ensure it does not get pulled in to the frame.

Fully loosen the plug nut and slide it down the cord out of the way. Next gently feed the plug up the frame towards the junction by pulling the existing harness cable upwards out of the opening in the frame.

Take care not to pull the end of the cable into the frame (thus the knot).

Attach new Harness G to end of installed factory cable with cable tie and tape.

Once the existing harness plug is exposed unplug the secondary cable and tape the end of it to the frame of the bike or tie it in a knot. This will ensure it does not fall back in to the frame of the bike.

Next: Using the cable tie, take the white plug end of the new harness and attach it to the end of the existing harness coming from the frame of the bike. Make sure to overlap each by about 2 inches. Secure the tie snugly and cut off the excess.

Next you want to wrap tape over the two ends starting in front of the white plug and continuing over the cable tie covering the exposed wiring.

Note: Take care to create a sloped surface as the tape covers the plug of the new harness. This will further ensure the harness passes through the bike frame with less chance of getting stuck.

At this point you want to use a pair of diagonal cutters to snip off the female end of the existing harness. You will now use this daisy chain of cables to route the new harness through the bike frame.

Feed the new Harness G up main frame down to fork leg drop out.

Note: Before beginning to feed the harness through the frame. Make sure to tie a knot at the end of the new harness (female plug) as you did to the secondary power cord. This will ensure it is not pulled in to the frame of the bike.

Starting at the top of the fork legs. Locate the opening in the frame and the portion of the factory harness visible there. Gently pull the existing harness up and out of the frame as you simultaneously feed the new harness up in to the frame from the rear.

Once the taped portion of the harness comes through the opening pull enough of the harness out to leave about a foot remaining at the rear of the frame.

Next: At the top of the fork, feed the daisy chain harness down and out the hole in the fork at the drop out.

Note: The opening at the bottom of the fork leg is much tighter than previous and requires care not to damage the harness and plug as it emerges between the frame and dropout. Once the taped portion of the daisy chain emerges it may take some patience and maneuvering the bundle gently to get it out.

Once the taped bundle emerges carefully unwrap it and cut off the cable tie to remove the old harness. Pull sufficient slack out and route to the plug of the PCB.

Route new harness plug to bottom of frame stabilizer.

With the new harness routed to the flywheel hub PCB it is time to route the plug end of the harness down the frame to the plug position.

To begin gently pull any slack in the new harness away from the fork back to the rear junction of the frame. Untie the safety knot and insert the male fitting in to the plug.

Note: Make sure to remove the nut from the plug which comes on the new harness. Otherwise the plug will not fit into the frame and may risk detaching inside.

Once coupled, feed the plug down the frame pulling gently on the secondary power cord until it emerges from the frame.

Once in position gently hold in place and carefully screw the nut onto the plug securing the new plug into position. Once tight, the secondary plug can be removed and the nut can be tightened using the open end or adjustable wrench.

Lastly, backtrack the route of the harness checking to make sure there is slack at each opening of the frame and there are not any portions of the harness tight or pinched.

Check the PCB connector is completely engaged and temporarily power on the bike to make sure the new harness is connected and functioning.

Reinstall the power cord cover using a 2.5 mm hex key

Reinstall the non-drive side belt guard.

Place the belt guard over the bottom bracket aligning the two halves and ensuring the rubber fitting on top fits flush and there are no gaps. Install the three short screws for the guard using the 3 mm hex key.

Install the four long screws on the drive side belt guard, connecting it to the non-drive side. Check the seams between the guards for proper alignment.

Reinstall the crank arm.

With the drive side crank arm in the downward position mount the non-drive side crank arm to the bottom bracket in the 12 o’clock position. Using an 8 mm hex key, tighten the crank arm bolt ensuring it turns smoothly pulling the crank arm on to the bottom bracket spindle.

Check for proper engagement of the crank arm splines with the bottom bracket and that each crank arm is aligned 180 deg from the other.

Once engaged properly continue to tighten the crank bolt until there is no visible gap between the interior surface of the crank arm and the bottom bracket spindle.